Chemical Peels for the Face: Types, Benefits and Aftercare

What types of chemical peel are there by depth?

Peels are usually classified by how deeply they act in the skin. The deeper the peel, the longer the recovery and the more caution it needs:

Most clinic peels are superficial, and several sessions a few weeks apart may be needed to reach the desired result.

• Superficial peel: acts on the outer layer only, recovers within a few days, and suits dullness, mild acne and surface pigmentation.
• Medium peel: reaches a deeper layer and is used for some pigmentation, lines and shallow scars; it needs longer recovery and is performed by a doctor.
• Deep peel: rarely used today, carries higher risks, and is performed only by a doctor in selected cases.

Which acids are commonly used?

Different agents are used, each with properties suited to certain conditions:

Your doctor chooses the acid, its strength and how long it stays on the skin. Never try high-strength acids at home, as they can cause burns, pigmentation or scarring.

• Glycolic acid: a fruit acid that improves skin texture and radiance.
• Salicylic acid: oil-soluble, so it penetrates pores, and suits oily and acne-prone skin.
• Lactic acid and mandelic acid: relatively gentle, and may suit sensitive skin.
• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA): used at different strengths for deeper peels, and only by a doctor.

How should you prepare for a peel?

Good preparation reduces complications and improves results. Your practitioner may ask you to:

If you are planning for an occasion such as a wedding, start the series several months ahead and schedule the last session at least two weeks before the date, so peeling is complete and the skin has settled. During Ramadan, dryness may increase with less water during the day, so moisturise well if your sessions fall then.

• Share all the medicines and creams you use, and any history of cold sores (herpes) or allergies.
• Stop retinoids and strong exfoliants several days before the session, as directed.
• Avoid waxing or laser hair removal on the face in the days before the session.
• Wear sunscreen daily in the weeks leading up to the peel.
• Use a skin-priming cream for several weeks in some cases, especially for olive and brown skin.

What happens during the peeling days, and how should you care for your skin?

After a superficial peel, mild redness and tightness are common, followed by light, flaky peeling for a few days. After a medium peel, redness and peeling are more noticeable and may last about a week or longer, with follow-up from your doctor.

During these days:

• Do not pull off peeling skin; let it shed on its own to avoid pigmentation and scarring.
• Wash with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water, and pat dry rather than rub.
• Use a plain, fragrance-free moisturiser generously.
• Avoid heavy make-up, saunas and strenuous exercise for the first two days.
• Pause exfoliants, acids and retinoids until your practitioner says otherwise.

Why is sun protection essential, especially for darker skin?

After a peel the skin is thinner and more sensitive to the sun, and unprotected exposure can cause new pigmentation that spoils the result. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, reapply when outdoors, and avoid strong midday sun during recovery, which matters greatly in our hot summers.

Olive and brown skin is more prone to pigmentation after inflammation, so it is best to start with a gentle superficial peel, prepare the skin well and increase strength gradually. Peels are usually postponed during pregnancy and breastfeeding, during and for a period after isotretinoin, and when there is active skin inflammation.